Apart-Hotel Paradis: Visiting Odessa

Short Destination Guide for Beginners

19th century - International Odessa

clock June 2, 2009 17:35 by author admin

    As one traveler observed, Odessa possessed "Italian houses, Russian officials, French ships, and German artisans." Even the Dire de Richelieu, noting that so little Russian was spoken in the city, ordered the high school he founded to teach the Russian language. By 1892, the number of foreign non-subjects was 7 percent of the population, a much larger percentage than in Moscow (0.75 percent) or even St. Petersburg, the much vaunted "Window to the West, whose foreigners constituted only 2.35 percent of its population. Odessa's colorful mix of population stamped the character of the city at least until the 1917 revolution.

A native of the city, born in 1880, made this observation:
Even if it was a city in Russia and in my time very russified in language, Odessa was not a Russian city. Nor was it a Jewish city, though Jews were probably the largest ethnic community, particularly when one takes into account that half of the so-called Russians were actually Ukrainians, a people just as different from the Russians as Americans from Britons, or Englishmen from Irishmen. At least four great peoples—three ancient ones, and the fourth a young one—united to build the city: first the Greeks and Italians, a little later came the Jews, and only in the 1
840s did the actual Russian influence begin to grow. The city was also full of Poles, Armenians,Caucasians, Tatars, Moldavians, and a hall dozen other peoples. In Odessa everybody was an Odessan and every-one who was literate read the same newspapers and thought about the same Russian problems.

Based on the book "Odessa memories" written by Nicholas V. Iljine

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Odessa secrets

clock May 27, 2009 16:29 by author admin

     Odessa always attracted the best and the worst of Russian society. People with daring, entrepreneurial skills, and high hopes for freedom flocked there to find an El Dorado, or as the Yiddish saying promised, “to live like God in Odessa”.  Others were already fugitives from the law, saw the commercial entrepot as a potential for criminal activity, and sought their fortunes dishonestly.  While many considered Odessites amoral as well as apolitical, most conceded that there were also many creative spirits in literature and the arts, sincere patriots, zealous reformers, good mothers and fathers. As Jabotinsky wrote, “Odessa was one of those few cities which created their own type of people.”Just as the city presents physical contrasts—the flatness of the steppes and the steepness of the bluffs, land and sea, sun and fog—Odessa’s history presents light and dark passages. Nature and history have conspired to create a singular, enchanting city by the sea—Odessa.

   The very name with its soli frame of vowels, its whispering sibilants, vaguely Greek, or perhaps Italian in origin, definitely not Slavic, is only the first of the city’s many mysteries. Legends, not documents, say that the empress founder, Catherine 11, gave a verbal order to name the city for the Greek epic hero Odysseus, but to render the word in the feminine gender. There are also tales that there had once been a Greek colony by that name in the vicinity, so that this was to be the second Odessa. The ancient Greek colony of Odessa, however, had been located in Bulgaria, many miles away. Odessa, easily pronounced by all tongues, was a kind of Esperanto city, or more accurately a Tower of Babel, reflecting the dozens of ethnic groups who carved out space within its capacious embrace, each speaking its own language, with Italian becoming the first lingua franca of the seaport. Only later did the Russian language predominate, but still twenty or more languages could be heard on the city’s streets. An evocative place, Odessa elicited stories, journals, histories, paintings, photographs, films, poetry, jokes, and songs across its two-hundred-year history from the famous and unknown to commemorate and even celebrate their experiences there.

Mysterious, magical, and majestic sitting on a high bluff overlooking the Black Sea, Odessa was also the scene of abject poverty, brutality, and violence. A popular Jewish song, “’Odessa Mama.” bespeaks the affection of the city’s residents, but mothers can be cruel as well as kind. The unique mix of peoples in Odessa served as a matrix for creating wealth and art, but it was also a volatile mixture that sporadically erupted in dreadful pogroms and revolutions, as its darker pages of history record.

 

Based on the book "Odessa memories" written by Nicholas V. Iljine

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